Ask the experts: Your questions answered

This is more likely to help your pup gain in confidence and move towards them.

At this point they could lower a hand out for the puppy to sniff, but they should not do this suddenly, or over the top of your puppy’s head.

If at any point your puppy shows signs of being worried again (tail tucked under, ears back, whites of their eyes showing,) then you should step in and ask the person not to try to touch your pup anymore. You can find out more about these signs in our “understanding your puppy” session with Puppy Academy. If you don’t have access, send us an email and we’ll sort it for you.

It’s key not to try to force your puppy into interacting with people. Dragging them over on a lead to meet people is a process called “flooding” which can actually make your puppy’s problem worse in the long run. Instead go at your puppy’s own pace and try to keep interactions with people short, and positive.

You could even give them a small treat after they have had any interaction with a new person to make it even more positive for them! Your pup will learn pretty quickly that new people = treats, and feel much happier about meeting them.

Monitor your dog's overall health and behavior during this period. While a temporary decrease in appetite is normal, if you notice any other concerning symptoms or a prolonged loss of appetite, it's best to consult with your vet to rule out any underlying issues.

Stick to your regular feeding schedule and offer your pup his usual meals. Even if he's not showing much interest, it's important to keep providing nutritious options for him. Make sure fresh water is always available as well.

. Limit your dog's exposure to the female in season to help him regain focus. Keep him as engaged as you can with playtime and mental stimulation to redirect his attention.

Establishing a specific spot in your garden for your dog's bathroom breaks can help create a routine and minimise wandering. Take your pup to this designated area consistently and use verbal cues like "toilet" to encourage her to stay in that spot until she finishes.

Consider using a lead during bathroom breaks, even in the garden, to have better control and limit your dog's movement. Keep her on a short lead and gently guide her back to the designated toilet area if she starts to wander. Over time, she’ll learn to stay still during potty time.

Positive reinforcement is a powerful tool for training. When your dog successfully stays still and completes her business, praise and reward her. Make the rewards even better if she does it all in the designated toilet area. Then, start to only reward her when she goes in the toilet area. This helps create a positive association with staying still and reinforces the desired behaviour.

Training takes time and patience, so be consistent with your approach. Regularly reinforce the desired behaviour and gently redirect your dog back to the designated area if she starts to wander. Consistency and positive reinforcement will help her understand what is expected of her during bathroom breaks.

Accidents happen, especially during training and puppyhood. If your pup has an accident or leaves a trail, clean it up promptly and calmly. This will help get rid of odours that could encourage her to toilet in the same spots. Never punish your pup for accidents or trails, as she won’t be able to link the punishment and the behaviour.

If your dog's wandering behaviour persists despite consistent training efforts, consider chatting to a professional dog trainer. They can offer additional techniques and advice to address the specific challenges you're facing.

Do you know that she doesn’t lick the sofa when she’s by herself? It can be useful to get a camera, or set up an old phone recording it. That way you can see what she’s up to when you’re not around, and if the behaviour appears then.

If your pup is only licking the sofa when you’re there, it may be a sign of anxiety.

Telling off your dog for licking the sofa might can increase anxiety, and actually escalate the behaviour.

Licking is a natural behaviour for dogs, and it’s a calming activity for them. She could be licking to settle herself down.

Dog’s are emotionally intelligent, especially with us humans. How are you feeling when you’re sat with her? If you’re stressed or worried or frustrated, your pup will pick up on this, which can make her start exhibiting calming behaviours, like licking.

Since licking is normal and calming, try to redirect her to licking appropriate items. A lickimat is a great option for this.

Gradually introduce your dog to her crate by associating it with positive experiences. Make the crate a welcoming and comfortable space by placing soft bedding, toys, and treats inside. Leave the doors open and encourage her to explore the crate voluntarily, rewarding her with treats and praise when she enters on her own. This guide on crate training by veterinary behaviourist Dr Sophie White has some practicaly tips on how to build positive associations with crates.

Take small steps to help your dog become more comfortable with the crate. Start by leaving the crate door open and allowing her to enter and exit freely. Gradually increase the time she spends inside, always rewarding her calm behaviour with treats and positive reinforcement. This gradual desensitisation process helps her associate the crate with positive experiences and reduces anxiety or fear.

If your dog snarls when entering the crate, it may be a sign of anxiety or discomfort. Counterconditioning techniques can be helpful in changing her emotional response. Use treats or favorite toys to distract her and gradually build positive associations with the crate. Encourage her to approach the crate, toss treats inside, and reward her when she enters without exhibiting any signs of aggression.

Never force your dog into the crate or scold her for exhibiting fear or anxiety, as it can worsen the situation and her reaction. By the time a dog is snarling, they’ve probably already displayed subtler signs of anxiety, like whale eye, looking away, lip licking, etc.

Crate training can be useful, but it’s not vital. You can try using babygates or a play pen to keep your dog contained without being confined to a crate. She might find it more comfortable and relaxing.

If your dog's snarling behaviour persists or escalates, it's best to speak to an accredited dog trainer or clinical animal behaviorist. They can assess the situation and provide specific advice tailored to your dog's needs, and offer hands-on guidance to address the underlying cause of the behaviour.

It’s important not to tell a dog off, or punish them, around their favoured resources as this can actually make the situation worse. Remember, resource guarding stems from a FEAR that something is going to be taken from them. So your dog is already worried and unhappy about sharing their favourite things, and telling them off is more likely to make them dislike your other dogs more because now interaction with those dogs = being told off! And the last thing we want to do is cause any difficulty or upset between your dogs.

If there’s plenty to go around, then there’s less chance of a dog being unhappy when another dog has the one they like.

Then you can step in if there is a sign of possessiveness being shown. So don’t leave toys out if you leave the house, for example.

If one of the other dogs goes towards a toy that your dog likes, then encourage the “possessive” dog to come over and play with you with a different toy. Start playing with the other toy and making it fun. Dogs are inquisitive, so they should come over to see what you are doing and join in the fun. Now their sibling having their favourite toy = them getting attention and play, so it can become a good thing not a bad thing!

Dogs have innate instincts that drive their behavior, and one of them is their natural prey drive. When they see animals on TV, their instinctual response may kick in, triggering a reaction such as barking, chasing, or even excitement. It's their way of responding to the stimuli and engaging with what they perceive as potential "prey."

Dogs rely heavily on their senses, particularly sight and sound. The moving images, sounds, and realistic depictions of animals on TV can capture their attention and stimulate their senses, leading to an instinctual response like barking. From their perspective, it might appear as though real animals are present in the room.

Dogs are highly social animals and often look to their human companions for cues on how to react in certain situations. If they notice you showing interest or reacting to the TV, they may interpret it as a cue to join in and respond by barking. It can be a form of seeking attention or trying to communicate with you.

Dogs are intelligent critters and can experience enjoyment from watching TV. Barking at animals on the screen may be their way of engaging it, similar to how we sometimes shout at wrong answers on quiz shows, or cheer at the footie.

Barking at the TV is actually becoming more common, as new TVs have a higher framerate. Dogs see life in much higher framerate than we humans, and old TVS with low framerates would have looked like a powerpoint to them. Now that TVs are faster, the images look more real to our pets, making them more likely to react!

Gradually expose your pup to TV programs featuring animals, starting with brief sessions and gradually increasing the duration. This helps desensitize them to the stimuli and reduces their arousal level.

Use positive reinforcement techniques, rewarding your dog with treats, praise, or toys when they remain calm or redirect their attention away from the TV. This helps them associate calm behavior with positive rewards.

Provide your dog with plenty of mental and physical stimulation through interactive toys, puzzle games, and regular exercise. A well-exercised and mentally stimulated dog is less likely to become overly-fixated on TV animals.

Superstitious behaviours get reinforced and become learnt by the dog owing to coincidental reinforcement - which may have been the toad! Your dog might just happened to have been by the roof drain soakaway when a toad hopped out. This will have activated part of the predatory sequence.

The predetary sequence is something all dogs find some parts of enjoyable. For example, Collies are designed to enjoy the “eye orient” part of the sequence, whereas Terriers like the part near the end where they “grab” a rodent. The toad hopping about could have been great fun for your dog to watch, and potentially chase to try and catch. So now she may be watching the drain in the hope of having this fun again.

This is something we need to be a little bit cautious of, because licking/ingesting the toad would be dangerous for her. Toads are poisonous to dogs. Signs that a dog has licked or ingested a toad include vomiting, frothing and foaming at the mouth, hypersalivation, shaking, oral pain, and collapse.

I would look at giving her different chase games to play in the garden, perhaps with a long handled toy like those from the tug-e-nuff range. I like these toys because dogs are easily enticed by the fur on the product, and they’re easy to make entertaining. Just drag them along the ground to stimulate an animal moving and get them to chase it.

Try to play in different areas of the garden away from the soakaway . Hopefully your new game will become more fun than the game she invented for herself!

If a food is “complete” or “nutritionally complete” it means it has all the nutrients your pet needs, in the right quantities. It means they could eat only that food, and still get everything they need from their diet.

Cats and dogs have different dietary needs, so you need to get the right food. Your pet will also have different needs depending on their age. For instance, puppies and kittens need more protein. So to make sure the food is as nutritious as your pet needs, make sure it fits their age.

Check out the ingredients list and look for real, high-quality protein sources (think chicken, beef, or fish) as the top ingredients. If the meat is named, it means it’s used whole meat, not meat or bone meal.

Just like we steer clear of artificial stuff, our pets deserve the same treatment. Keep an eye out for foods without artificial flavors, colors, or preservatives. Go natural and let your pet's taste buds dance with joy!

If your pet has specific dietary requirements or health conditions, have a chat with your vet about foods that cater to their unique needs. They're the experts who'll guide you towards the best options!

As long as it’s complete, there’s little nutritional difference between the two. The main difference is that wet food has a lot of moisture, so it can help to keep your pet hydrated, and it’s easier to chew if they have tooth or jaw issues.

This is a big debate. Dogs have evolved with humans for millenia and one of the big differences they have with wolves is that they can digest grains. So your pup can eat grains and thrive. There is currently some concern over grain free foods and increased risk of heart diseases, so I recommend food with grain in.

Some pets do well on raw food, other’s don’t. If I’m honest, raw food comes with a lot of faff (and storage space) to avoid cross-contamination. There’s also a risk of pathogens, which could make you and your pet very sick. So I’d rather not take the risk. Plus, lots of foods, like carrots, actually become more nutritious and easier to digest after cooking.

As long as the food you’re giving them is complete and age-appropriate, they can eat just that one food all the time and be perfectly healthy. That one food has everything they need.

Chopping and changing foods can lead to fussiness and gut problems. Dogs are generally much healthier and happier when given a complete single food. You may need to change foods for health reasons, or as a dog gets older (e.g. puppy food and adult food have different nutritional contents). But if your dog is eating some of the food and maintaining their healthy weight (even if it seems like they’re not enjoying it as much any more,) then stick with the same food.  

If your dog has an existing health condition, it’s a good idea to chat to your vet about it as it could be worth adjusting their diet to help them feel their best.

Many raw foods are not genuinely complete, so it’s really important to check with your vet that the food you are giving is genuinely a complete food which is appropriate for your dog's age, breed, and activity levels.  

Because it is not cooked, raw food can contain more parasites and bacteria than cooked food (even if it is just exactly the same as the food that has been cooked). This can increase the risk of your dog developing parasites and certain bacterial infections. 

There’s also some evidence that owners who feed their dogs' raw food are also at higher risk of getting problems themselves compared with dog owners that feed cooked food.  This may be the case even if you are really careful to avoid cross-contamination. Of course, the risks vary for different people and different situations, so it is something to discuss with your vet, or your doctor if you have any specific health problems yourself.  

Tartar can only be removed through professional cleaning. I’d say to check your dog into the vet’s for a professional cleaning. Cleanings are seen as preventative healthcare, so most insurers don’t cover them.

Ideally, you’ll brush your dog’s teeth 2-3 times a week. But something is better than nothing.

VOHC-approved water additives, dental chews, or chew toys designed to promote dental health can help maintain good oral hygiene. They’re not as effective as brushing (and some are more effective than others), but you can use them to help keep your pup’s teeth clean if you brush their teeth less frequently.

Cat biscuits are full of protein and fat, near irresistable and pretty filling for a dog. If you can feed your cat seperately from the dog, and keep the cat biscuits out of reach, she might have more of an appetite.

. Similarly, if your pup is still eating treats, it could be filling her up.

Take a look at some of the ingredients and flavours in the cat food and see if you can find a similar dog food. Is it chicken? Fish? Pup’s have preferences and it sounds like she’s exploring hers.

Adding a bit of warm water or low-salt broth to dry food can also enhance its aroma and make it more appealing. So can warming it in the microwave. You can also try adding some dog-safe foods like chicken or salmon oil to her meals to make them more enticing.

. Pup’s thrive on routine. If you’re not already, keep meal times at a consistent time. If your pup doesn’t eat her food in half an hour, pick it up, cover it, and pop it in the fridge. Try offering it to her again the next meal time

Rabbit droppings are mostly undigested grasses and fibres. And unlike poo from other animals like dogs and foxes, there’s little risk of any harmful bacteria. Although eating a lot can cause an upset stomach.

While occasional nibbles on rabbit droppings may not pose a significant risk, it's important to discourage your dog from eating a lot of it.

During your walks, keep a close eye on your dog and try to steer clear of droppings. Keeping them on the lead makes it easy to direct them away from poo. If your dog’s poo eating is excessive, muzzle training can help as it’ll prevent them from eating anything they shouldn’t.

As well as preventing them from getting near poo, you can try redirecting them. If you see poo, try encouraging your dog to focus on you or a toy instead. Positive reinforcement training can be helpful in teaching them to focus on other activities or treats instead.

Rabbits can carry certain parasites, such as intestinal worms. Your dog might pick these up when eating poo. It's a good idea to make sure your pup is up to date on their deworming treatments to minimise any potential risks.

Just like humans, dogs can develop plaque and tartar buildup on their teeth, leading to gum disease, tooth decay, and bad breath. Regular teeth brushing helps remove plaque and maintain good dental hygiene, promoting your pup's overall health.

Ideally, you’d brush your dog’s teeth once a day. But it’s not always possible, so it’s good to aim to brush your dog's teeth at least 2-3 times a week. 

You can also use other dental cleaning aids like dental chews or VOHC water additives to help keep their teeth clean if you’re not brushing daily. But they’re not as effective as brushing so still aim for 2-3 brushes a week.

Use a soft-bristled toothbrush specifically designed for dogs, or a finger toothbrush that fits over your finger (although be careful that your dog doesn’t mistake your finger for a tasty treat!). You must use dog-friendly toothpaste, because human toothpaste can be harmful to dogs. Plus, dog-friendly toothpaste is in flavours like poultry or beef to make the experience more enjoyable for them.

Introduce the toothbrush and toothpaste gradually to your dog. Let them sniff and lick the toothpaste to get acquainted with the taste. Reward positive behaviour with praise and treats to create a positive association with the brushing process.

Gently lift your dog's lip to expose their teeth. Using the toothbrush or finger toothbrush, brush in small circular motions along the gum line and teeth surfaces. Pay extra attention to the back molars, where plaque tends to build up. Aim for a 2-minute brushing session. You can gradually work up to this duration using positive reinforcement.

Patience is key during the teeth brushing process, especially if your dog is new to this routine. Start with short brushing sessions and gradually increase the time as your dog becomes more comfortable. Always end on a positive note with praise, treats, or a favourite activity to make it an enjoyable experience.

Regular teeth brushing is an essential part of dental care, but it's also important to schedule professional dental checks with your vet. (The same way we humans go for annual checkups!) Your vet can perform a thorough examination, clean your dog's teeth, and address any underlying dental issues.

During your bitch's season, you might notice a discharge from her vulva that ranges from bright red to a lighter pinkish colour. As her season wraps up, the discharge typically becomes less intense and gradually fades away.

As your pup’s hormones settle and her season ends, she’ll become less interested in romantic escapades with her admirers. The boys may still come knocking, but if she's politely declining their advances she’ll be at the end of her season.

One of the telltale signs of a bitch in season is swelling in the vulva area. As her season comes to an end, you'll notice the swelling gradually decrease, and her lady parts will return to their normal size.

Your vet is the best person to advise you on your dog's specific vaccination needs based on her age, overall health, lifestyle, and any regional disease risks. Schedule a check-up to discuss her vaccination history and receive tailored recommendations.

Core vaccinations protect against highly contagious and potentially life-threatening diseases that are prevalent and pose significant health risks. Examples include vaccines for distemper, parvovirus, and hepatitis. Many of these vaccines provide long-lasting immunity, and booster shots don’t always need to be annual. Some can be every 3 years, depending on the vaccine used. Again, you’ll need to chat to your vet.

Consider your dog's lifestyle and environment to determine potential exposure risks. If she has limited contact with other animals and you live in an area with low disease prevalence, the need for certain vaccinations might be reduced. However, if she frequently interacts with other dogs, visits parks, or stays in boarding facilities, regular vaccinations will be essential.

Based on your dog's individual circumstances, your vet may recommend adjusting the vaccination schedule. This could mean extending the interval between certain vaccinations or selecting specific vaccines that align with her needs.

As your dog gets older, her immune system will weaken. Keeping up her vaccines will help to protect her from serious illness, especially when her own immunity isn’t as strong. Your vet will evaluate your dog's age, health, any existing medical conditions, and consider how vaccinations may impact her wellbeing.

Insurance policies often require you to keep your dog vaccinated, so double check your insurance.

Some antihistamines are safe for dogs under veterinary guidance. However, not all antihistamines are safe, and dosages will vary based on your dog's specific needs. Remember, the dosage and suitability of any medication must be determined by your vet. They'll provide guidance based on your dog's health, age, weight, and any potential interactions with other medications.  However, antihistamines are rarely effective in controlling itching in dogs (although some antihistamines may make a dog sleepy which can result in less itching!).  Luckily there are other, much more effective medicines which a vet can prescribe instead to help itching.

Itching can be a sign of fleas, so if you haven’t already, check for signs of fleas on your pup.

A balanced and nutritious diet can work wonders for your dog's overall well-being, including their skin health. Opt for high-quality dog food that contains essential fatty acids, such as omega-3 and omega-6, which help maintain a healthy coat and skin. Itching can also be a sign of dietary allergies. Consult your vet for specific dietary recommendations tailored to your dog's needs.

Sometimes, allergies to environmental factors like dust, pollen, or certain cleaning products can trigger itching. Keep your home clean, use hypoallergenic or pet-friendly cleaning products, and minimise exposure to potential allergens.

A good grooming routine is essential to keep your furry friend's skin healthy. Rinse your dog regularly when they come in from walks as some dogs can be allergic to pollens on their skin - however, try to avoid any soap or shampoo products which can make itchy dogs more itchy by removing the natural oils from their skin.

Colloidal oatmeal is a gentle and soothing remedy for itchy skin and a much better option for cleaning itchy dogs than soap based products. You can find oatmeal-based shampoos or make a homemade oatmeal bath by grinding plain, uncooked oats into a fine powder and mixing it with warm water. Gently massage the mixture onto your dog's skin and rinse thoroughly. This can provide relief and reduce itchiness.

Essential fatty acids.

Essential fatty acids like omega-3 are proven to help fight inflammation and soothe itchy skin. You can either give oral supplements or topical creams, your vet can chat to you to decide which is best for you and your pup. Since they need to build up in your dog’s body, they can take 4-6 weeks before you notice a difference, but they’re proven to make skin healthier!